At SIHH 2018 Paris-based Hermes released a very compelling new version of the Arceau chronograph with the Hermes Arceau Chrono Titane collection. I was a big fan of these lovely new elegant sport watches, especially the version on the embossed black Barenia calfskin strap. The watch begins with the Hermes Arceau case, which according to Hermes was originally designed in 1978 by French designer Henri dOrigny. The Arceau is not the only case dOrigny designed for Hermes, but like his other designs it has clearly lasted the test of time and looks remarkably relevant today in this sport watch that is imbued with a series of classic and formal design elements.All images by Ariel AdamsIve always had a very soft spot for sporty/casual timepieces that have traditional and formal design elements. Case in point on the Hermes Arceau is the ring of italicized and radially-aligned Breguet-style Arabic hour numerals. These theoretically belong on dressier watches but in my opinion help add a refined character to this and other sportier designs. A slightly textured matte charcoal gray dial contrasts very well with the hands and hour markers. Hermes effectively uses red color accents on the dial to enhance the sportiness of the design, and leaf-style hands (also a formal versus sporty design element) are acceptably legible. The Arceau case is said to be inspired by Hermes history with producing equestrian riding equipment and saddles. The round case has a unique way of playing with asymmetry by having a different lug design for the top and bottom of the watch. The inspiration according to Hermes are riding stirrups. The upper lugs are loop-style even though there is a traditional pin bar securing the strap. On the bottom part of the case the strap connects more directly to the case. Strap width is 21mm wide on both ends. The resulting look is one that provokes the eyes but does not offend ones sense of good design given the balanced look. Hermes has used the Arceau case for a long time as it has consistently been a successful seller for the brand. Sport versions of it like this Arceau Chrono Titane are in my opinion quite rare.As the Titane part of the products name implies, these watches are produced from titanium. Hermes uses grade 2 titanium for what I believe is its slightly darker color. I happen to really like how the Arceau-style case feels in titanium in both aesthetics and the lightweight feel on the wrist. According to Hermes the 41mm wide width of the Arceau Chrono Titane positions it as a very large model though comparatively speaking it certainly is not. The rear of the case is also in titanium and has a pleasant Hermes brand motif?C though a view to the movement through a sapphire crystal window would have been appreciated. Over the dial of the watch is an AR-coated sapphire crystal and the case is water-resistant to 30m (not super sporty).Inside the Arceau Chrono Titane is an automatic mechanical chronograph movement produced by Hermes own movement manufacture, Vaucher. The movement is appropriate without any particular standout features aside from the fact that I dont worry about its operational characteristics, since it was designed to be reliable. The movement operates at 4Hz (28,800 bph) with a power reserve of 42 hours. Functions include the time, 12-hour chronograph, and the date with a window positioned between 4 and 5 oclock. For the money I think there is fair value here. Normally I come to expect serious price premiums for any wristwatch coming from a major fashion house like Hermes. No, the Arceau Chrono Titane is not a budget watch, but it doesnt feel terribly overpriced given the branding, case and construction quality, movement, and ability to serve as a timeless, versatile fashion item. As I mentioned above, Hermes is offering the titanium-cased Arceau Chrono Titane with two Barenia leather strap options. One is in natural brown calfskin leather and the other (my favorite) is on the black, embossed strap with its hip horizontal quilting pattern. What a difference a strap makes, right? This might be the first Hermes timepiece Ive seen that is meant to go with a cool bikers jacket. Price for the Hermes Arceau Chrono Titane watch is $4,950 USD.?hermes.com [...]
