Youd be forgiven for saying that Jaeger LeCoultre is playing it safe this year. Might even be forgiven for questioning whether or not its two new novelties for the inaugural digital Watches Wonders are even new at all - but as is the case with most Jaeger LeCoultre watches, we must have patience, grasshopper. Firstly, yes - this isnt a major collection launch like the Polaris in 2018 or the truly awe-inspiring Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpetuel that collectively dropped jaws at SIHH last year. Instead, what we have is two new references amounting to a subtle refresh on the brands foundational Master Control collection, suggesting that the Le Sentier manufacture is playing it a lot safer than some of its peers in the Richemont group - an understandable position to own given the amount of market uncertainty at the moment. But a closer look reveals a long-overdue mechanical update to two of JLCs fundamental calibres, which in and of itself, should provide a hint that the brand isnt just listening to its constituents, it also remains intent on *ahem* keeping with the times and delivering more value from a chronometric standpoint.SpecificationsBrand: Jaeger LeCoultreModel: Master Control Date (ref. Q4018420)Dimensions: 40mm-wide, 8.7mm-thickWater Resistance: 5atm (50 meters)Case Material: stainless steelCrystal/Lens: sapphireMovement: Jaeger LeCoultre cal. 899Frequency: 4HzPower Reserve: 70 hoursStrap/Bracelet: Novonappa calfskinPrice Availability: $6,750 USD The first Jaeger LeCoultre I ever coveted was a silver-dialed 37mm Master Control ref. 140.8.89 from the early aughts, and its great to see some of the classic elements that made that reference, in particular, so desirable, making a return in this new variant. Particularly the perfect dial balance, with its sharp Dauphine handset, a bevel framing the date window and Automatique between dial center and 6 oclock. That dial balance is further accentuated with the 6-9-12 markers that exhibit rounder, more finely finished surfaces - a subtle but very welcome touch.The classic JL logo at 12 oclock is, once again, an applied marker - another welcome touch that inexplicably went away in the two previous references. Perhaps more contentiously, though, JLC has opted to return to the 40mm case, a design choice that yields a vast, expanse of empty dial space, ultimately polarizing the transitional Master Control reference Q1398420 from a decade ago. Also, the bezel appears thinner and more elegant on this new version, so its highly likely that these dials are going to feel visually much larger on the wrist than the current variants, but well withhold all judgment on the 1mm increase in size until we have a chance to go hands-on.The dial detailing on the new Master Control Calendar (ref. Q4148420) has received the same further refinements, along with the same 1mm increase in case size to 40mm. Nice as the new dials are though, the real story here isnt so much the aesthetic improvements but the beating heart of each of these new references. In addition to an increased power reserve, one extremely cool new functional detail afforded by the Calendars updated Calibre 866 is how the date hand (whose red-tipped pointer is now a neat little nod to the JL logo instead of a crescent-shaped moon) jumps over the entire moon phase aperture at 6 oclock when going from the 15th to the 16th, so as to not obscure any part of the display during whats usually between the 12th and the 20th on a traditional pointer date. SpecificationsBrand: Jaeger LeCoultreModel: Master Control CalendarDimensions: 40mm-wide, 11.6mm-thickWater Resistance: 5atm (50 meters)Case Material: stainless steel (ref. Q4148420) or 18k Rose Gold (ref. Q4142520)Crystal/Lens: sapphireMovement: Jaeger LeCoultre cal. 866 (automatic, day, date, month, moon phase)Frequency: 4HzPower Reserve: 70 hoursStrap/Bracelet: Novonappa calfskinPrice Availability: Stainless steel available now for $10,700 USD, and rose gold available in June for $22,400 USDUnderstandably, the upgrades to Calibre 899 in the Date variant arent quite as interesting, but theyre still no less significant. Most welcome is how the anemic 38-hour power reserve has also been improved to 70 hours - great news for those critical of the cal. 899/1 movements deployed in the outgoing Master Control, as well as the Polaris sports line from 2018. Further improvements have been made to the movement assembly itself, which now features titanium screws and new lubricating oils, along with new escapement and pallets, which are now made of silicon to minimize friction in order to improve efficiency while reducing long-term wear. Best of all, these improvements - including a bigger mainspring barrel - have been made without increasing the height of either calibre, thereby preserving the thin profiles of both watches. Both movements are, again, subjected to JLCs strict 1000-hour certification test for chronometric reliability, and the watches theyre cased in now bear an eight-year warranty.Prices for both new Master Control models have increased nearly 10% from their current variants, but from a finishing and movement update standpoint, Id argue that the increase in price is absolutely justified here. For more, head to jaeger-lecoultre.com. [...]
